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1303 Beetle Surgery
ENGINE REMOVAL
Here is a guide to removing the engine from a 1303 beetle. It isnt an official way to do this, but its a way that works for me, and might be of use to you.
If you have any advice i have not included here, then please email me and i will amend this guide appropriately :)
Thanks
STEP 1.
Basically, the first step is to raise the car from the gearbox drain plug, and then lower the car onto 2 axle stands. Before doing this loosen the wheel nuts on the passenger side rear wheel.I use a standard trolley jack and a medium block of wood for this, and i put the axle stands on the inner side of the torsion bar (so it is on the torsion bar casing, not the actual bar) with 3 teeth on the axle stands visible (a height guide reference for my stands, may vary on others). Lower the car onto the axle stands and also leave the jack in place.
Remove the rear wheel. Now scoot under the engine. Where the gearbox meets the engine you should see a support bracket running from left to right, which is bolted to the end of the gearbox bell-housing with a 17mm bolt on either end. Now, just up a little from here you should feel a 17mm nut. This is the engine stud nut. There is one on both sides (in the same location, but the other side). Remove these 2 nuts.
Using a second trolley jack, and medium block of wood, support the engine from the sump plate.
Now with the 2 nuts removed, there is only 1 bolt and 1 nut and bolt left to undo. Under the passenger side, directly above where the nut was removed, should be a bolt (again its 17mm). This is just threaded into the bell-housing and should be removed in the same way as the nuts were.
All that is left now is the nut and bolt on the driver side.
The nut is visible behind the fan housing, but the bolt is hidden above the starter motor. You can feel the end of the bolt (top right hand side of starter motor when looking to rear of car when underneath). The bolt end is round, with a flat part which rests against the starter motor and therefore prevents the bolt from turning when the nut is put on or removed.
reach down behind the fan housing with a 17mm spanner and begin loosening the nut. It may help to have a friend go underneath and press the bolt in place to prevent it spinning whilst undoing the nut.
Right, not thats all that secures the engine in place (2 bolts in top half of bell-housing, and 2 studs in the bottom half).
Loosen off the heater hoses and heater control flaps on both sides.
Now you need to disconnect parts of the engine so it can be removed from the car.
Disconnect and remove the air filter assembly, the 2 heat intake pipes (1 on each side), the alternator electric cables (noting where they go back on)..
loosen off the accelerator cable.
ALSO pull out the 2 short metal pipe connectors that are fitted into the exhaust bubbles on each side, as well as the main front piece of tinware and the small pieces that fit round the pre heater pipes. Now disconnect and plug (with a pencil) the fule pipe from the fuel pump. The remaining electric cables must be removed but MAKE SURE you note where they go back on!
Here is how you lock the flywheel so u can undo the nut. If my holes were drilled on the other edge i could have bolted the iron below the nut and had the end on the ground...ive made it awkward here for myself but you get the idea ;-)
Here is the old oil seal...
And here is the new silicone one fitted (make sure its nice and flush).
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